RodDoors Custom Car Interior Systems & Components

3/28/2008 I never seem to find the time to toot my on horn, fine with me but bad for bidness. A great thanks goes out to Robert and Dan for their help in sorting out this Chevrolet '36 tall cab, and '36 short cab headliner stuff. This is what we think and if we're wrong we're sure one of you out there will tell us so.

Theory: the '36 Early Chevrolet Truck is referred to as the Tall Cab. The '36 Late Chevrolet Truck is referred to as the Short Cab. The headliner for the tall cab fits '34, '35 and '36 Early. The headliner for the short cab fits '36 Late and all of '37 and '38

The difference between the cabs is noticeable side by side. But in case you don't happen to have both years to compare to, there are signs to look for when determining what you may have.

The Late '36 Chevrolet Truck Short Cab has a steel plate that is a little taller than the rear window and wraps from door pillar to door pillar and around the rear window. If that Panel is missing reproduction panels are available. We found many sites on the web that offer this part. What at first seamed so routine, quickly became an archeological expedition as to what did they originally do, how it fit and what is needed today.

So, now that the research has been done, where to from here? We have been fielding calls for years as the need for a headliner for these years. we have been under the mistaken notice that the short cab was different when we could have been offering to those that had a short cab the '37-'38 headliner that we keep in stock! We did come across an original Tall Cab Headliner. We have been building a mold that would have a better fit, or rather would be easier to install than the original nailed in place version.

So with the mold complete or what we think will work, the real hard part begins. Fitting this headliner to the cab, and adjusting the mold from its original form to what it truly should be. This is the step that is not completed today. We could be like a contractor and tell you "Two weeks" but that is really insincere. We want to have this done as quickly as possible also, but we're relying on a couple of Guinea pigs mentioned above to help complete this trial phase. So be patient. Call us and we'll put you on our list of those that need a Tall Cab Headliner.

photos coming soon!

12/14/2007 Where Have I been? Working. Working on new Stuff. Some Fan Shrouds, More Speaker Pods, A Headliner for an early '36 Chevy Truck. More Later. Remember that feedback and suggestions are what provide the solutions to your interior problems. Happy Holidays!

10/30/2007 I Have finally "Got er Done". Work on the '33-'34 Headliner for Ford Coupes has been Slow going at times but in the end we have prevailed.

The Idea: If you've been asked to make something a couple of hundred times you do finally get the idea that maybe it's something you should make. So it is with the New '33-'34 Coupe Headliner. Many people seeing that we make a headliner for a '32 asked if we were going to do one for the '33-'34.

The Product: Headliner with radius curves along the side and in the rear for a 1933-1934 Ford Coupe. Retail $379.

How it's Installed:

Shipped oversized so as to fit most fiberglass bodies also. Oversizing the headliner also allows for a better final fit if you've chopped the top. We install this headliner WITHOUT the original bows. This technique provides up to 3 inches more headroom. So you can have the same inside height while chopping the top up to 3"

Measure the distance from the rear window to the visor plate above the windshield. We may not have to do any trimming we just want to be able to fit the headliner center into the car. For example, we want the center piece to ride above the visor plate and extend in toward the windshield at least 1". If this measurement were to be 5" longer we may not be able to get the headliner center even into the car.

With the oversized headliner center in the car slide the front of the headliner as far forward as possible.

Then slide it back to see how we can mark or trim the center to fit behind the rear window garnish. Use a silver sharpie to mark the molding onto the headliner center. Trim the headliner center 3/8" smaller than the mark made of the outside of the Rear Window Garnish Molding. When trimming I always remove the headliner from the car and do the trimming on the work bench. I'm better able to get a better cut this way and less chance of damage to the car this way.

With the headliner supported by the Front Visor Plate and the Rear Window Garnish Molding we move on to fitting the sides of the headliner. If we are using the Original Door Trim plates we would mark the sides above each door from outside the car and trim about 1/2" smaller than our mark. We would then mark the screws in the plate and either drill out the holes in the headliner center or just screw through the headliner center directly.

With the Headliner center installed we can move onto fitting the corners, from the headliner center panel down to below the beltline on the '33-'34. Fit one side, then fit the other. mark for around the rear window having each corner come into the garnish molding about 4". This not only stabilizes the corner piece it also leans itself to a clean sharpe look.

No Photos yet

9/25/2007 This is one of those crazy products that never really received much push because; it either took to much effort to explain, didn't appear have that "WOW" factor, or just looked too complex or difficult to install. I think it had none of those problems, but I am biased. Ok here goes.

The Idea: Since all of our Modular Armrests are hollow, How about if we made a door release that could be hidden inside. It needs to be metal, how about Billet? the end of the lever should be rounded to prevent injury in case of an accident or catching on clothing.

The Product: The Billet Hidden Door Release Lever $189.00/ pair.

How it's Installed: Determine the proper height ( in general 9-11" from the bottom of the window) and location of the Armrest on the door. (Always start on the passenger door) Bolt the Release lever to the door so that the Release Bracket will fit within the Armrest and the lever will extend below that. Feed the release Lever Cable through the door to the Latch. Hook the cable into the Latch and mount the cable to the door 2-3" away from the Latch to prevent the flexing of the cable that could prevent the door from opening. Adjust the cable tension until the door operates correctly every time.

Measure the offset of the lever to the door and use that measurement to begin the slot in the Armrest for the Lever. Start small using a utility knife make the required 3/16' slot. You can always lengthen the slot for your application. Once the slot is correctly sized we can cover the Armrest and install it on the door with screws. Of all the different ways of mounting our Armrests screws will provide the most positive method for this application.

Click the picture to go directly to that web page.

Here we go, Work on the Convertible continues even after the Coupe has been completed. Just enough difference in the Quarter Panels to warrant a new plug. You can see the first pull of the Quarter Panel in the back. Where as this was once a 3 piece unit we now have it in a two piece unit for easier assembly. You can also see how the Rear Seat sits back 3' from the door opening and is also 2" lower than stock. This new seat position works for both the Coupe and the Convertible. Even with this extra leg room I wouldn't want to be over 14 years old. Hey, that's up from 11.

What is also good about this Photo is you can see the Center Console with positionable shifter boot (not Shown). This flexibility allows endless possible combinations of shifters.

Click the picture to go directly to that web page.

Click the picture to go directly to that web page.

A Shifter Mount Console for B and M shifters. Easily trimmed to fit any transmission hump.

Click the picture to go directly to that web page.

Click the picture to go directly to that web page.

The Complete 1973-79 Ford Truck Interior is now ready. Included in the package is a New Seat, Door Panels, Headliner, Kick Panels, Rear Cab Cover and Carpet. Panels have the location marked on the back side of each panel for window and door handles, power window uses just don't drill out the hole.